Sierra Espuña and the olive trees

Sierra Espuña is probably the most surprising and at the same time least-known corner of the entire Region of Murcia. In a region that is predominantly dry, arid and almost desert-like in many areas, Espuña is a miraculous exception: a mountain massif (with peaks above 1,500 m) covered by one of the densest and best-preserved pine forests in all of southeastern Spain. The reason is historical: in the late 19th century, the forestry engineer Ricardo Codorníu undertook here one of the most ambitious and successful reforestation projects in all of Spain, planting millions of pines on what was then a completely eroded and barren sierra. A hundred years later, the result is a Mediterranean forest that looks millennia-old, cloaking the entire range and protected as a Regional Park since 1992.

The famous "Pozos de la Nieve" (snow wells) are one of the park's most fascinating historical features. They are a series of semi-buried circular constructions located on the sierra's summits above 1,500 m altitude, where from the 16th to the 19th century compacted winter snow was stored to be sold during the summer as "natural ice" in the cities of Murcia, Cartagena and Lorca. The snow was transported in esparto-grass panniers on the backs of mules through the night to reach the cities before dawn (when it would start melting). The wells are perfectly preserved and can be visited along a signposted trail: it is one of the most interesting industrial-archaeology experiences in Murcia and demonstrates the technical complexity of the ice trade before modern refrigeration was invented.

Aledo, the village perched on the southern slope of Espuña, is one of the most photogenic spots in the entire Murcia region. Set at 600 m altitude on a vertical crag, it preserves a 12th-century Arab castle (one of the few fortresses that resisted the Christian reconquest of the 13th century) and a medieval old quarter where cascading whitewashed houses create an almost Andalusian image. The castle tower, still standing though partially restored, offers panoramic views from the top that sweep across the whole of Sierra Espuña to the north, the Guadalentín valley to the west and, on clear days, the Mediterranean to the southeast. It is a natural viewpoint completely unknown outside Murcia.

The RM-503 road climbing from Alhama de Murcia into the heart of Sierra Espuña is a little biking gem virtually unknown outside local circles. Over 20 km of continuous ascent through the pine forest, with technical bends and generally good tarmac, and no traffic outside the big summer weekends. The views during the climb are spectacular: the contrast between the intense green of the pines and the dry ochre of the Guadalentín valley at your feet is more reminiscent of Provence than southeastern Spain. In spring, the mountain slopes are carpeted with wildflowers and aromatic herbs that fill the air with the unmistakable scent of the Mediterranean scrubland.

Practical riding tips: the optimal season runs from October to May; in summer the lowland areas get very hot (40 degrees C is common). Traffic is light year-round. Fill up in Alhama de Murcia or Totana. For a meal, in Aledo the Mesón La Estrella serves traditional Murcian cuisine with local produce (lamb, rabbit, conejo al ajillo, michirones) at affordable prices. And a tip: if you visit in February, the almond trees on the slopes of the Guadalentín valley are in full bloom and create one of the most spectacular colour displays in southeastern Spain. Combining your ride with almond blossoms and the climb into the pinewoods of Espuña is one of the most complete biking day-plans you can enjoy during the low season in Murcia.