Puerto de Navacerrada and Cotos

The Navacerrada Pass (1,860 m) is probably the most iconic and beloved mountain pass in the whole of the Community of Madrid. Just 60 km from the centre of the capital and accessible via reasonably good roads, it has been the quintessential mountain getaway for Madrileños for over a century, first as a ski resort (Spain’s very first ski resort was Navacerrada, back in 1923) and later as a destination for motorcyclists, cyclists and hikers. For motorcyclists from the capital, tackling ‘the climb up to Navacerrada’ is practically a rite of passage: the first ride on a new motorbike, a test of one’s nerves after a fall, or a quick getaway when you’ve got three hours to spare on a Saturday morning.

The Sierra de Guadarrama, where Navacerrada is situated, was designated a National Park in 2013, becoming Spain’s fifteenth National Park. This designation officially protected a vast granite massif (covering more than 33,000 hectares) which combines Mediterranean ecosystems at lower altitudes with Scots pine forests and alpine meadows on the peaks. What surprises many visitors most is the biodiversity of the wildlife: roe deer, wild boar, genet and pine martens still live here, and in higher, more isolated areas, even the extremely rare Iberian desman, a semi-aquatic endemic mammal that survives only in a few watercourses in central and northern Spain. The peaks of the Sierra de Guadarrama are also one of the few places in the whole of Spain where you can see the majestic black vulture, a bird of prey that was on the brink of extinction in the mid-20th century and which has maintained a small, stable population here.

The Cotos Pass (1,830 m), just 4 km north of Navacerrada along the M-604 road, is the other unmissable stop on the route. It is the traditional starting point for ascents to Peñalara (2,428 m, the highest peak in the Central Mountain Range) and to the glacial lakes situated in its cirque, considered to be the only naturally formed glacial lakes in the whole of the Community of Madrid. The road between Navacerrada and Cotos is one of the best in the Central System for motorcycling: sweeping bends, perfect tarmac, constant views of the Cuerda Larga and La Maliciosa, and long enough to enjoy several kilometres of uninterrupted riding.

The Monastery of El Paular, in Rascafría, is the route’s unexpected cultural highlight. Founded in 1390 by order of John I of Castile as the first Carthusian monastery of the Castilian Crown, for centuries it was one of the wealthiest and most powerful monastic complexes in central Spain. The church houses one of the most important Gothic altarpieces in the whole of Spain: a 15th-century masterpiece featuring scenes from the life of Christ carved in polychrome alabaster. Although the monastery was confiscated in the 19th century and partially abandoned, it has now been partly restored and is home to an exceptional Parador Nacional, where you can stay in medieval cells converted into luxury rooms.

Motorcycling tips: the best time of year is from April to October. In winter, snow is common and mountain passes may be closed for days at a time. Traffic is heavy at weekends during the summer and every weekend during the ski season; it is very light on weekdays. Fill up with petrol in Cercedilla, Navacerrada village or Rascafría. For a bite to eat, avoid the tourist restaurants at the mountain pass itself and head down to Rascafría: the Restaurante Los Calizos serves roast lamb and ‘judiones del Barco’ beans like few other places, on a terrace overlooking the monastery. And a tip: if you’re going on a Saturday in May, leave Madrid before 8 am. The mountains are spectacular in late spring, with the peaks still bearing a touch of snow, the oak trees sprouting at lower altitudes, and the golden light of dawn creating the best possible conditions for photography.