Morcuera-Canencia: The Madrid Bikers' Big Loop

The Morcuera-Canencia "Big Loop" is the most famous motorcycling route in the Madrid region, and probably the weekend ride Madrid's bikers repeat more than any other. The circuit links two legendary mountain passes — Morcuera (1,796 m) and Canencia (1,524 m) — in a loop of roughly 140 km that can be ridden in a morning, packing in a density of technical corners you will struggle to find this close to a major European capital.

The Puerto de Morcuera is the standout section: the M-611 climbing from Miraflores de la Sierra up the southern flank is a succession of tight bends through pine and oak that Madrid's riders know by heart. The climb is relentless (over 15 km at an average gradient of 6%), the tarmac is good, short- and medium-radius corners alternate, and the views over the Sierra de Guadarrama — and, on clear days, Madrid in the distance — are spectacular. On fine Saturdays, dozens of bikes stream up and down the Morcuera in a procession that has become part of the landscape.

The Puerto de Canencia, connected to Morcuera by the M-629 (a ridge road with views down both sides of the range), has a different character: the climb from Canencia is gentler but longer, with wider-radius bends through birch and holly woods. The Montejo beech wood nearby (officially in Guadalajara) is one of the southernmost beech forests in Europe and requires booking in advance to visit.

Rascafría, in the Lozoya Valley, is the Big Loop's food stop. This mountain village has the Monasterio de El Paular (a 14th-century Carthusian monastery blending Gothic, Mudéjar and Baroque), a craft brewery (Cervezas del Lozoya) and restaurants serving Madrid's mountain cooking: judiones de La Granja (the largest white beans in Spain, stewed with pork ear, snout and chorizo), grilled Avileña Negra Ibérica rib steak, and valley mushrooms in autumn.

Practical notes: the Big Loop is rideable from March to November (the passes can hold snow from December to February). On fine weekends motorcycle traffic is heavy — take care, especially around riders pushing harder than they should. Speed is enforced by cameras at several points. Fuel in Miraflores, Rascafría and Buitrago. Riders wanting more can extend the Big Loop with the Puerto de Navafría (1,774 m) towards Segovia, tripling the fun.