Montanejos Circuit: Complete Alto Mijares

Montanejos is the most famous thermal village in the Comunidad Valenciana and the starting point of a motorcycle route that winds through the gorges and valleys of the Alto Mijares, one of the most depopulated and least-known counties in the entire region. Its Fuente de los Baños, a thermal spring that flows at a constant 25°C forming a natural pool of crystalline water surrounded by rock walls, is one of the most beautiful natural bathing spots in all of Spain and the essential stop on this route.

Legend has it that the Moorish king Abu-Zeyt had the thermal pool built so his harem wives could bathe in it, and that the mineral properties of the water kept their skin young and beautiful. Whether or not the legend is true, the reality is that the water at Montanejos has recognized mineral-medicinal properties and the 25°C temperature makes it perfect for swimming at any time of year. After a morning of twisting curves on your bike, plunging into the Fuente de los Baños is one of the best rewards imaginable.

The full Alto Mijares circuit follows the Río Mijares through gorges and narrow valleys: from Montanejos you descend to Cirat (a village with a ruined Arab castle), continue to Toga (a tiny hamlet where the river forms spectacular pools), and on to Espadilla and Vallat, villages of barely 50–100 inhabitants wedged into the bottom of the gorges. The CV-20 and CV-195 roads connecting these villages are narrow, sinuous and virtually traffic-free: a solitary rider's paradise.

The return via the CV-194 toward Caudiel and Bejís extends the route with a striking change of scenery: you move from the limestone gorges of the Mijares to the hills of the Sierra de Espadán, with cork-oak forests (the northernmost cork-oak woodland in all of Europe) and a cooler, more humid atmosphere. Bejís has a waterfall, the Salto de la Novia, that drops 30 metres amid lush vegetation.

Practical riding info: the route is rideable year-round thanks to a continental Mediterranean climate. In summer the heat is moderate in the gorges thanks to the river's cool air. The roads are narrow but well surfaced. Fuel stations in Montanejos, Onda and Segorbe. To swim at the Fuente de los Baños, bring swimwear and a towel (free access). For lunch, the ollas of the Alto Mijares (olla de col, olla de pelotas) are hearty and affordable mountain stews.