Buñol, Cortes de Pallás and the Reservoir

Cortes de Pallás literally hangs over the Júcar reservoir in such a dramatic setting that when you see it for the first time — especially from the final stretch of the CV-425 — it’s hard to believe it’s an inhabited village. It is one of those places where the combination of steep cliffs, perched medieval houses and turquoise water in the background creates a scene that looks like something out of a fairy tale. The village stands more than 200 metres above the reservoir, and from the main viewpoint you can look out over an impressive river canyon that stretches for tens of kilometres both upstream and downstream. For motorcyclists, reaching Cortes after an hour of continuous bends is a visual reward that’s hard to beat.

The historical reason for Cortes’ isolation is purely geographical: the village is situated right in the heart of the Muela de Cortes, a rugged limestone massif that separates the Ribera Alta region of Valencia from the inland districts, and for centuries it was virtually inaccessible except via bridle paths. It was not until 1988, with the construction of the current Cortes reservoir and the modernisation of the CV-425 road, that the village fully entered the modern era. Before that, it was a world apart, with its own customs, dialect and architecture. Even today, the older residents of Cortes speak a very distinctive Valencian dialect, shaped by historical isolation and by Castilian influences from the Upper Júcar region.

The CV-425 road between Buñol and Cortes de Pallás is probably the most technically challenging in the whole of the province of Valencia. It features over 50 km of almost continuous bends, with considerable gradients, a narrow but well-maintained tarmac surface, and virtually no traffic. It crosses the eastern slope of the Caroig Massif and passes through some of the most sparsely populated and unspoilt villages in the Valencian hinterland: Yátova, Macastre and Dos Aguas. It is one of those roads where motorcyclists feel as though they are uncovering a secret, because even many Valencian motorcyclists are not very familiar with it. The combination of solitude, spectacular scenery and the need for constant riding skill makes it a favourite route for anyone who has travelled it once.

Buñol, the starting point of the route, boasts a unique cultural curiosity: every last Wednesday in August, the town hosts La Tomatina, probably the world’s most famous tomato fight. Tens of thousands of people gather in the town square and throw more than 150,000 kilos of ripe tomatoes at each other for exactly one hour, in a festive chaos that has made Buñol one of Spain’s best-known towns internationally. The festival began by chance in 1945 (during a spontaneous brawl at a market) and has since become a major tourist attraction. If you’re passing through Buñol outside the festival dates, it’s worth popping down to the Plaza Mayor to see the town: small, picturesque, with white houses and a historic bar (Bar Pepito) where they serve the earliest morning aperitif in the whole area.

Riding tip: this route is physically demanding (150 km of technical bends with several mountain passes along the way). The best time of year is from March to November; in the height of summer, it gets very hot in the canyons (temperatures of 40°C are common). Fill up in Buñol or Yátova at the start: within the Caroig area, there is only one reliable petrol station (in Yátova). For lunch, in Cortes de Pallás, Mesón Manuel (right by the viewpoint overlooking the reservoir) serves baked rice and lamb at reasonable prices with unbeatable views. And a tip: if you’re planning to do the whole route, allow 6–7 hours, including stops, so you’re not rushing and can fully enjoy the viewpoints and the villages.