Sierra Calderona: Bétera to Segorbe

The Sierra Calderona is the green lung of Valencia: a mountain range of modest height (just over 1,000 m) but of considerable extent, which physically separates the Valencian agricultural plain of the Camp de Túria from the Alto Palancia region of Castellón. For Valencian motorcyclists, it is the most convenient and beloved getaway: just thirty minutes from the city centre, you enter a world of Mediterranean pine forests, winding country roads and mountain villages where the feeling of being far from the city is absolute. The CV-25 road, the motorcycling backbone of the mountain range, probably offers the best value for money in terms of distance covered in the whole of the Valencian region.

The Porta Coeli Charterhouse, tucked away in a valley to the south of the mountains near Serra, is one of the oldest and most significant monastic complexes in the whole of Valencia. Founded in 1272 by Saint Andrew of Albalat, Bishop of Valencia, it is the second-oldest Carthusian monastery in Spain (after Scala Dei in Catalonia) and probably the best preserved in its original medieval form. Even today, it is home to a small community of Carthusian monks who observe the strict rule of absolute silence, solitude and prayer that has characterised this order since its foundation in the 11th century. Visits are only possible at very limited times and subject to strict rules (total silence, no photography), but the experience of spending two hours in a monastery that has been in continuous operation for 750 years is hard to match.

Segorbe, at the other end of the route, is the cultural and architectural highlight of the trip. The capital of the Alto Palancia region in Castellón, it is home to one of the most impressive medieval aqueducts in the whole of Spain: a 14th-century hydraulic system that is still fully operational (carrying water from springs in the mountains to the town centre) with stone arches that have withstood six centuries with no maintenance other than the occasional patch-up. Segorbe Cathedral, a blend of Gothic and Renaissance styles, houses one of the most interesting cathedral museums in the east of the Iberian Peninsula, featuring works by 15th-century Valencian artists (Vicent Macip, Joan de Joanes) that are well worth a lengthy visit.

But what truly makes Segorbe unique in the eyes of the public is its famous ‘Entrada de Toros y Caballos’ (Procession of Bulls and Horses), which has been declared an Intangible Cultural Heritage: during the September festivities, the horses — not the bulls, the horses — race ahead of the fighting bulls through the town’s streets, controlling and guiding them. It is an equestrian tradition unique in the whole of Spain, perfectly choreographed by local riders who train all year round, and seeing it live (it’s hard to find another bull-fighting spectacle quite like it) is an unforgettable experience.

Motorcycling tips: the Sierra Calderona is accessible almost all year round (except for the odd day of ice in winter at the highest points). The best time to visit is from March to November. Traffic is moderate at weekends and virtually non-existent on weekdays. Fill up with petrol in Bétera or Segorbe. For lunch, in Olocau, La Casa Madre restaurant serves Valencian baked rice and charcoal-grilled meats at reasonable prices. And a tip: the turn-off to the Cova del Garrofer (4 km from Olocau, accessible by motorbike right up to the car park) offers a short but impressive visit to a cave featuring Neolithic rock paintings.