Sierra de Espadán - Montanejos

The Sierra de Espadán is one of the most interesting and biodiverse natural areas in the entire Comunidad Valenciana, and for riders on Spain's eastern seaboard it has been an almost sacred destination for decades. Its ecological uniqueness stems from a geological rarity: the range is formed of rodeno rock (reddish Triassic sandstone), an acidic stone that, within the overwhelmingly limestone context of Mediterranean Spain, creates unique conditions for a very special flora. Here survive the only significant cork oaks (Quercus suber) on the eastern peninsula, a species normally associated with the Atlantic west that in the Sierra de Espadán finds the acid soil and moisture it needs. The cork-oak forests of Espadán are specially protected and form one of the most beautiful woodland landscapes in the Valencian interior.

The CV-195 between Jérica and Montanejos is the motorcycling backbone of the entire range and, without question, one of the five best biking roads in the whole Comunidad Valenciana. Over 30 km of non-stop bends without a single straight worth mentioning, well-maintained tarmac, and a landscape that changes with every gap in the forest: cork-oak groves, rodeno pine woods, narrow valleys, natural viewpoints over the Alto Mijares. It is one of those roads where the bike rides itself and time vanishes. Local Valencian riders know it simply as "la 195" and many come to ride it every weekend of the year.

Montanejos, the emblematic village of the area, is internationally famous for its natural hot springs — the celebrated Fuente de los Baños — where the Río Mijares flows at a constant 25 degrees C all year round. The geological explanation is fascinating: the waters rise from the subsoil loaded with minerals and residual volcanic gases, heated by deep geothermal gradients, and mix with the cold river flow to create a steady warm temperature. In winter, the thermal contrast between the air (around 5 degrees C) and the water (25 degrees C) creates a dense mist that envelops the entire canyon in an almost mystical atmosphere. It is one of the few completely public and free natural thermal baths remaining in Spain.

The CV-20 between Montanejos and Onda, which closes the loop, is the perfect complement to the CV-195. More technically demanding, with tighter bends and serious gradients, it cuts through the heart of the Sierra de Espadán Natural Park at its highest and most rugged section. Here the cork-oak forests are denser, the views more dramatic and the sense of isolation more complete. The combination of both roads (CV-195 + CV-20) produces the 230 km route that is probably the most complete and most beloved circuit among all Valencian riders. Some ride it once a month for years without ever tiring of it.

Rider practicalities: the best season is spring and autumn; summer is very hot (35 degrees C is common) and the springs get overcrowded. In winter there is a risk of ice at higher elevations but the main climb via the CV-195 is usually clear. Fill up your tank in Castellón before setting out: inside the range there are only two petrol stations (Jérica and Montanejos). For lunch, the Restaurante La Cuva in Montanejos serves Mijares trout like few other places. And a final tip: if you go on a winter Sunday, arrive at the Fuente de los Baños before 10 in the morning, when the Sunday crowds have not yet arrived and you can enjoy the warm water in relative solitude. Soaking in natural hot springs surrounded by a 200-metre limestone canyon, in the depths of January, with steam rising from the water, is one of those experiences that stay with you forever.