Urkiola and the mountain passes of Biscay

The Urkiola Pass (713 m), although modest in altitude, is one of the most iconic and culturally significant mountain passes in the whole of northern Spain. Situated in the very heart of the Urkiola Natural Park, on the border between the provinces of Bizkaia and Álava, it is home to the Sanctuary of the Saints Antonios, one of the most important traditional places of pilgrimage in the entire Basque culture. The present church dates from the 18th century, but the site has been a place of worship for much longer: there is archaeological evidence of pagan cults at this pass dating back to pre-Roman times, possibly linked to the Basque goddess Mari, who, according to Basque mythology, dwelt on the peaks of the Cantabrian Mountains and controlled the weather. Medieval Christianity, as so often, simply reused a pre-existing sacred site, replacing the gods.

The Sierra de Urkiola has a significant symbolic feature: it is home to Anboto (1,331 m), an isolated mountain with a distinctive silhouette that is the most recognisable visual symbol of the inland Basque Country. According to Basque mythology, Mari, the principal goddess of the pre-Roman Basque pantheon, lives on the summit of Anboto: a powerful female figure who controls the weather, animals and human destinies. Local legends tell that Mari leaves Anboto to visit other Basque peaks (Aizkorri, Aralar, Gorbea) riding in a chariot of fire, and when she appears in the sky in the form of a meteor or a flash of lightning, the villagers know that a major storm is on its way. Even today, many local people in the area continue to recount these stories with a respect that is surprising for a technically modern society.

The N-636, which crosses the Urkiola Pass from Durango to Otxandio, is probably one of the most popular motorcycling routes in the whole of Bizkaia. Over 15 km of continuous bends, perfect tarmac (the Bizkaia Provincial Council takes particular care of this road), reasonable gradients and a route that winds its way through beech forests and alpine meadows with constant views of Mount Anboto and other surrounding peaks. Basque motorcyclists gather here every weekend of the year (the Bar Olarra, at the top of the pass, is one of the best-known meeting points for motorcyclists in the north of the peninsula) and the atmosphere of this mountain biker’s pub is one of the most authentic you’ll find in Spain.

Otxandio, on the other side of the mountain pass, is one of the most characteristic villages in the inland Basque Country. It has an interesting history: during the 15th century, it was one of the most important centres for iron smelting in the whole of Spain, thanks to the abundant forest resources in the surrounding area (necessary for producing charcoal) and the nearby iron mines. The ‘ferrerías’ (ironworks) of Otxandio produced weapons, agricultural tools and wrought-iron items that were exported throughout the Kingdom of Castile. Today, this artisanal tradition survives in small artistic blacksmith’s workshops that keep alive a technique that has all but disappeared in the rest of Europe. The Otxandio Blacksmithing Museum (housed in a restored 16th-century blacksmith’s workshop) tells the whole story and is well worth a visit.

Motorcycling tip: the Urkiola Pass is accessible almost all year round, but there may be snow in the depths of winter. The best time to visit is from April to October. There is moderate traffic at weekends. Fill up with petrol in Durango before heading up the pass. For a bite to eat, the Olarra Bar-Restaurant at the top of the pass is legendary amongst Basque motorcyclists: traditional Basque cuisine, hearty stews, Tolosa red beans and grilled meat, all served in the atmosphere of a traditional village bar. And a word of advice: if you head up to Urkiola on a sunny Sunday in May, be prepared to find the top of the pass lined with dozens of motorbikes and bikers from all over the north of the peninsula chatting on the terrace of the Olarra. It’s one of the few areas in Spain where biker culture has developed such a clearly recognisable meeting point.