Ordino-Arcalis and the Tristaina Lakes

The Ordino valley is the most peaceful and authentic corner of Andorra, far from the commercial bustle of Andorra la Vella and the mass ski tourism of Grandvalira. The parish of Ordino preserves a rural Pyrenean character that has been lost in the rest of the principality: stone houses with slate roofs, tiny Romanesque churches, hay meadows surrounded by fir forests, and a silence broken only by the cowbells of the livestock grazing in the mountain pastures. The CG-3 road that climbs from La Massana up to Ordino and then continues along the CS-340 towards Arcalis is a succession of gentle curves through woodland, gaining altitude steadily and unhurriedly.

The geology of the Ordino valley is dominated by Paleozoic schists and slates, the oldest rocks in Andorra, which give the landscape a palette of greys and ochres that contrasts with the deep green of the coniferous forests. The Estany de l'Angonella, halfway between Ordino and Arcalis, is a small glacial lake surrounded by firs that mirrors the surrounding peaks like a looking glass. In the upper part of the valley, above the tree line, the landscape transforms into alpine meadows and glacial cirques with the granite spires of Pic de l'Estanyo (2,915 m) as a backdrop.

The Tristaina Lakes are three stepped glacial lakes (Primer, del Mig and de Mes Amunt) sitting at 2,300 metres of altitude, accessible via a moderate trail from the Arcalis ski station car park. It is a round trip of about 2 hours that rewards you with one of the most beautiful high-mountain landscapes in all the Pyrenees: turquoise water surrounded by grey rocks and green meadows, with the absolute silence of the high peaks as the soundtrack. For the rider, it is the perfect combination: a spectacular road up to the car park and then a short walk to a magical place.

The cuisine of the Ordino valley is the most traditional in Andorra. In the village of Ordino, Borda de l'Avi is one of the principality's most emblematic restaurants: a borda (barn) of stone and wood converted into a restaurant that serves Pyrenean mountain cuisine. Ordino's trinxat de coll (cabbage and potato mash with crispy bacon), oven-baked trout from the Valira river, seasonal mushrooms (rovellons, fredolics) and crema catalana are the essential dishes. The artisanal cheeses of Ordino, made with milk from mountain cows, are among the finest in the Pyrenees.

Rider's notes: the road to Arcalis is normally open from June to October, depending on snow conditions. It is a dead-end road (no pass at the top), so you have to return the way you came, but the descent offers a completely different view from the climb thanks to the orientation of the slopes. Parking at Arcalis is free outside the ski season. There is no petrol station between Ordino and Arcalis (25 km), so it's advisable to fill up in La Massana or Ordino before heading up.