Middle Atlas: Ifrane, Azrou and the Cedars

Ifrane is probably the most bewildering village in the whole of Morocco. Perched at an altitude of 1,650 metres in the heart of the Middle Atlas Mountains, it looks like a Swiss village transplanted to Africa: houses with red-tiled gabled roofs, manicured gardens, fountains spouting clear water, an artificial lake and even a stone lion carved by a German prisoner of war during the Second World War. It was built by the French during the Protectorate (in the 1930s) as a summer mountain resort, and even today it remains the favourite destination of the Moroccan bourgeoisie when they wish to escape the summer heat.

The Azrou cedar forest, just 20 km from Ifrane, is one of the most remarkable forest ecosystems in North Africa. Atlas cedars (Cedrus atlantica) can grow to over 50 metres in height and live for more than 900 years, and the trees in Azrou are among the most monumental in the Maghreb. But what makes this forest unique is its population of Barbary macaques (Macaca sylvanus), the only non-human primate in the whole of Europe and North Africa: small monkeys with thick fur that live in the cedars and are so common on the road that motorcyclists must keep a constant watch to avoid running them over.

The N13 road between Ifrane, Azrou and Midelt is one of the best motorcycling routes in the whole of Morocco: excellent tarmac (it was recently resurfaced), technical mountain bends, scenery that changes with every kilometre (cedars, holm oaks, alpine meadows, red-rock gorges) and very little traffic. It is the classic route for motorcyclists travelling down from Fez towards the Sahara and the Todra and Dadès gorges, and during the motorcycling season (October–May) it is common to come across groups of European motorcyclists.

Midelt, to the south of the route, is the gateway to the High Atlas and one of the highest towns in Morocco (1,500 m). From here, you can see the peaks of Jbel Ayachi (3,747 m), the highest mountain in the Eastern Atlas, and the lead and zinc mines that were intensively mined during the French Protectorate. The town has an authentic souk (far less touristy than Fez or Marrakesh) and a climate that can be as cold as the Pyrenees in winter.

Motorcycling tips: Ifrane and Azrou are accessible all year round, but it can snow in winter (yes, it does snow in Morocco: Ifrane is home to the Michlifen ski resort). The ideal time to visit is spring and autumn. Fill up with petrol in Ifrane, Azrou or Midelt. For accommodation, the Hôtel Michlifen in Ifrane is a good base. For a bite to eat in Azrou, any roadside restaurant serves lamb tagine and couscous on Fridays at ridiculously low prices (€3–5 for a full meal). And a word of advice: drive very slowly through the cedar forest area, as macaques cross the road without looking.