Vall de Boí and Port de la Bonaigua

The Port de la Bonaigua (2,072 m) is the absolute pinnacle of paved motorcycling in Catalunya and one of the highest mountain passes in all of Spain outside Sierra Nevada. Its Catalan name literally means "good water," a reference to a spring that once existed near the summit where transhumant shepherds stopped to drink for centuries before descending to their summer pastures. The C-28 road that climbs to the pass is a relatively modern feat of engineering — previously, Pyrenean crossings at this altitude were simply mule tracks — and has the peculiarity of closing to traffic for half the year due to snow, making it a strictly summer route.

The ascent from Esterri d'Àneu (in the Pallars Sobirà) is probably the most spectacular: the road climbs continuously through forests of black pine and past glacial lakes, with solar-powered electrification panels signalling that you are nearing the top. The serpentine bends of the final kilometres are the stuff of legend, with well-maintained asphalt kept up by the Catalan Generalitat (which takes special care of this road given its tourist importance). In summer, riders may cross paths with groups of Northern European bikers who come specifically to tackle the Bonaigua, and the parking areas at the pass are packed with German, French and Dutch licence plates.

But what makes this route truly unique is not the Bonaigua alone: it is the combination with the Vall de Boí, a small Pyrenean valley south of the pass that harbours one of the most important concentrations of Romanesque art in the world. Nine Catalan Romanesque churches and chapels from the 11th and 12th centuries — Sant Climent de Taüll, Santa Maria de Taüll, Santa Maria de l'Assumpció de Cóll, Santa Eulàlia d'Erill la Vall, among others — built in local granite by itinerant Lombard master builders, were collectively declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000. The density of top-tier Romanesque art packed into barely 20 km² is probably unmatched anywhere in Europe.

Sant Climent de Taüll, the most famous of the nine, houses a cycle of Romanesque mural paintings (the originals are in the MNAC in Barcelona; the church displays digital reproductions in their place) considered one of the absolute masterpieces of European medieval art. The paintings, dated to around 1123, depict biblical scenes centred on a Christ Pantocrator of singular expressive power that influenced modern artists such as Picasso (who studied these paintings at length during his Barcelona period). Visiting Taüll is an experience that is both artistic and spiritual: the combination of simple Romanesque architecture, alpine light filtering through small windows and the absolute silence of the valley creates an atmosphere that is hard to put into words.

Motorcycling tip: the Bonaigua Pass is usually closed from November to May (sometimes longer), so this route is strictly for the summer. The best time to go is July–September, when the mountain passes are fully open and the weather is generally stable. Watch out for afternoon thunderstorms in July–August, which can be violent. Fill up as much as possible before heading up: there are no petrol stations on the mountain passes and the nearest service station in the Val d’Aran is in Vielha. For food, there are several good restaurants in Vielha; in Taüll there are also options serving local Pyrenean cuisine. And a crucial tip: this route is long (220 km) and demanding. Allow at least 8 hours including stops, and book accommodation in Vielha or Taüll if you want to take it at a leisurely pace.