Tangier to Essaouira: the Atlantic route

The Moroccan Atlantic coast is probably the most spectacular and varied coastal route in all of North Africa, and for the Spanish rider it is the natural extension of home turf: only a 14 km strait separates Tarifa from Tangier, and from there 900 km of coastal road head south through four imperial cities, dozens of medinas and a visual transition from the Mediterranean to the Saharan Atlantic. It is a route that swaps Spain for Africa without ever losing the cultural closeness of the historic Maghreb.

Rabat, the Moroccan capital, surprises the rider expecting chaos: it is an orderly city with wide boulevards, the stunning Kasbah des Oudayas (an Almohad fortress overlooking the Atlantic), the Tour Hassan (an unfinished 12th-century minaret of colossal proportions) and the Mausoleum of Mohammed V, one of the most elegant buildings in modern Morocco. Casablanca, the next stop, is the country's economic powerhouse and home to the Hassan II Mosque, the third largest in the world, built partly over the sea with a 210-metre minaret.

El Jadida, further south, holds a fascinating detail for the Spanish traveller: it was a Portuguese colony for three centuries (Mazagão, 1502–1769), and its Citadelle Portugaise — a UNESCO World Heritage Site — preserves intact ramparts, bastions, a Manueline Gothic church and, above all, the famous Portuguese Cistern, an underground chamber whose vaults are reflected in the water on the floor, creating an almost dreamlike image that has served as a film set on multiple occasions (including Ridley Scott's "Kingdom of Heaven").

Essaouira, the endpoint of the route, is the jewel of the Moroccan coast: an 18th-century walled port city designed by a captive French architect for Sultan Mohammed III, with a beautifully preserved medina (UNESCO), a fishing harbour where you can eat fresh charcoal-grilled fish for two euros, and an endless beach where the Atlantic wind blows constantly, making the city the windsurfing capital of Morocco. Jimi Hendrix spent several weeks here in 1969, and the town has since become a magnet for musicians, artists and travellers from around the world.

Rider practicalities: the A1/A2 motorway connects Tangier with Casablanca (350 km, cheap toll), but the more interesting option for bikers is the coastal N1 road passing through the smaller towns. The full route needs 3–4 days to be properly enjoyed. Petrol stations are very frequent. Riads (traditional houses converted into hotels) are the best accommodation: 30–60 € per night with breakfast. For eating in Essaouira, head straight to the fishing port and choose your fish at the market stalls: they grill it in front of you for 5–8 € — a full seafood feast.