Djemila and the Roman ruins of Kabylia

Djemila is probably the most beautiful and best-preserved Roman city on the entire African continent, and one of the most important archaeological sites in the Mediterranean. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1982, it occupies a spectacular location: a mountain ridge at an altitude of 900 metres in the heart of Kabylia, with ruins stretching for a kilometre along a hilltop surrounded by ravines. Its Roman name was Cuicul, and it was founded in the 1st century AD as a colony for military veterans by Emperor Nerva. What remains is an extraordinarily complete Roman urban complex: a forum, a basilica, temples, triumphal arches, thermal baths, a theatre and, above all, a museum housing mosaics of a quality comparable to those at Pompeii.

Kabylia, the mountainous region where Djemila is situated, is the most culturally distinctive area in the whole of Algeria. It is the historic stronghold of the Kabyle Berbers, an Amazigh people who have preserved their language (Tamazight), their customs and their traditional architecture for centuries, resisting the Arabisation that prevailed in the rest of the Maghreb. The Kabyle villages, perched on mountain ridges with stone houses and red-tiled roofs, are strikingly reminiscent of the villages of Morocco’s Rif region or the Alpujarras in Granada. The people are extraordinarily hospitable towards foreigners.

Riding a motorbike through Kabylia is an experience quite unlike any other destination in North Africa. There’s no tourism — Algeria receives barely 2 million tourists a year, ten times fewer than Morocco — the roads are empty, the scenery is spectacular (mountains covered in holm oaks and cedars, deep valleys, villages perched on the slopes) and you constantly feel as though you’re exploring unspoilt territory. Algeria’s national roads are generally in good condition (Algeria has invested heavily in infrastructure over the last two decades), and petrol is ridiculously cheap (less than €0.30 per litre).

Tizi Ouzou, the capital of Greater Kabylia, and Béjaïa, the port city marking the end of the coastal route, are urban surprises that travellers do not expect. Béjaïa, in particular, boasts a spectacular Mediterranean bay (the French colonists called it ‘Bougie la Belle’), the remains of a 13th-century Hafsid citadel, and a headland (Cap Carbon) featuring the tallest lighthouse in the entire Mediterranean.

Motorcycling tips: Algeria requires a visa for Spanish nationals (this can be obtained from the consulate and takes 2–3 weeks). The most convenient ferry routes are Alicante–Oran (Baleària, 12 hours) or Barcelona–Algiers (Algérie Ferries, 18 hours). To bring your vehicle into the country, you’ll need Algerian insurance and a temporary road permit, which can be obtained at the port. Driving is aggressive in cities but relaxed in the countryside. For accommodation in Kabylia, the small family-run hotels are cheap and clean (€15–25 per night). For food: Kabyle couscous (with pulses and lamb) is one of the best dishes in the Maghreb.