Sintra, Cabo da Roca and Lisbon Coast

Sintra is probably the most magical and lush place in all of Portugal. Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, this mountain range covered in subtropical forests just 30 km from Lisbon was for centuries the retreat of Portuguese aristocracy and royalty, who built palaces, estates and gardens of an almost dreamlike extravagance. Lord Byron described it as "the glorious Eden" and he did not exaggerate: the combination of tropical vegetation (thanks to the Atlantic moisture the sierra captures like a sponge), Romantic architecture and constant mists creates an enchanting atmosphere hard to find anywhere else in Europe.

The Palácio da Pena, perched atop the sierra, is Portugal's most famous and photogenic building: a 19th-century Romantic palace painted in vivid colours (yellow, red, blue) blending Mudéjar, Manueline, Gothic and Renaissance styles in a delirious architectural collage that looks straight out of a fairy tale. It was commissioned by King Ferdinand II, a German prince married to Queen Maria II, who was a fanatic of Wagnerian opera and wanted to create his own Neuschwanstein in the middle of the Atlantic sierra. Riding up to the palace along the N375 is a sensory experience: the road winds through tree ferns, mosses and lianas in an almost tropical setting.

Cabo da Roca is the westernmost point of mainland Europe: a 140-metre cliff above the Atlantic where the land literally ends and the open sea begins. There is a lighthouse, a marble plaque bearing verses by Camões ("Aqui... onde a terra se acaba e o mar começa") and a shop where you can buy an official certificate of having reached the "end of Europe." The view is otherworldly, especially at sunset: the sun sinking into the infinite Atlantic with the cliffs at your feet.

The coast between Cabo da Roca and Cascais is a succession of wild beaches, wind-battered cliffs and villages that maintain a balance between the tourist pressure from Lisbon and authentic Atlantic character. Praia da Ursa, accessible only on foot via a steep trail, is considered by many to be the most beautiful beach on the entire Portuguese coast: a cove framed by monumental rocks with golden sand and waves from the open Atlantic.

Practical rider info: Sintra is 30 minutes from Lisbon and can be extremely crowded in summer and on weekends. The Palácio da Pena requires a ticket and queues can reach 1–2 hours in peak season (buy online). The sierra roads are narrow and winding but well surfaced. For eating, in Sintra the Piriquita bakery is legendary: their queijadas and travesseiros (traditional pastries) have been devoured for over a century. And the ultimate tip: go to Cabo da Roca at sunset. Arrive 30 minutes before sundown, park the bike, sit on the cliffs and watch the day die over the Atlantic — it is one of the most powerful experiences a rider can have in Europe.