Pinoso, Yecla and Sax: wine and curves

The Castillo de Sax is probably one of the most photogenic and geographically extraordinary castles in the entire Valencian Community. It is planted literally on top of a vertical limestone crag 200 metres high, in a balance that seems to defy all the laws of physics: the towers and walls of the castle practically continue the vertical line of the cliff itself, creating an unmistakable silhouette visible from dozens of kilometres around. The fortress is of Arab origin (10th-11th centuries), exploiting the natural inaccessibility of the crag to create a practically impregnable defensive point. The Muslims controlled it for more than 200 years and it only fell into Christian hands in 1239, during the conquest of James I.

The Sierra del Maigmó, just south of Sax, is one of the most surprising and least visited corners of inland Alicante. It is a limestone massif modest in altitude (under 1,300 m) but extraordinarily rugged, with vertical walls, caves, sinkholes and a landscape more reminiscent of the French Massif Central than of the Mediterranean. For motorcyclists from inland Alicante it has been a regular weekend destination for decades, with technical secondary roads, well-maintained tarmac, and the absolute guarantee of encountering no traffic apart from the occasional cyclist. The CV-83, which crosses the sierra from Petrer to Pinoso, is probably the best introduction to the area.

Pinoso, the capital of the Vinalopó wine country, has a unique historical curiosity: during the 19th century, it was the main producer of mineral salt in all of Spain. The Pinoso salt mine, still operational, extracts over 600,000 tonnes of salt annually from an underground deposit that in some points reaches a depth of up to 800 metres. It is the largest land-based salt mine in all of Europe and one of the biggest in the world. Visiting the mine (by prior booking) is a fascinating industrial-geological experience: the underground galleries are so vast that lorries drive through them, and the atmosphere of pure salt is so singular that it is used for respiratory therapies.

Yecla, already in the province of Murcia but culturally part of the Valencian-Murcian Altiplano, is the area's other wine capital. Here wine is produced under the D.O. Yecla appellation, dominated by the indigenous monastrell grape variety, capable of producing reds of great personality and concentration. The Yecla wineries (Castaño, Barahonda, Hijos de Juan Gil among the best known) have earned notable international prestige over the last twenty years, especially with their old-vine monastrell reds: rough-hewn, intense, with notes of ripe dark fruit, Mediterranean herbs and leather. A visit to one of the Altiplano wineries is practically obligatory for any wine-loving motorcyclist.

Riding tips: this route is relatively comfortable (140 km, no major mountain passes, good tarmac, quiet country roads) and ideal for a relaxed day's riding. The best season is spring and autumn; in summer it gets extremely hot (40°C is common) and it is wise to set off early. Fill up in Elda at the start. For lunch, in Pinoso the Restaurante Casa Modesto serves traditional Alicante cooking with Altiplano produce (gazpacho manchego, rabbit in garlic, artisan cured meats) at affordable prices. And a tip: if you go in September, it coincides with the grape harvest and many wineries open their doors for tours with tastings. The combination of motorcycle, vineyards, castle and winery is hard to beat as a weekend plan.