Les Corniches: Nice, Èze and Monaco

The three corniches of the French Riviera between Nice and Monaco are probably the most famous coastal roads in the entire world. Built in three different eras and at three different heights above the sea, they offer three completely different riding experiences that, combined into a single loop, make for the best short motorcycle day on the entire Côte d'Azur.

The Grande Corniche (D2564), the highest of the three, was built by Napoleon in 1806 along the route of the ancient Via Julia Augusta. It runs at an altitude of between 400 and 680 meters above the sea, offering panoramic views spanning the entire Bay of Villefranche, the cape of Nice, Monaco, and on clear days the Italian coast as far as Liguria. The highest point, the Col d'Èze (507 m), has a viewpoint from which the vista is so spectacular that Alfred Hitchcock chose this road to film the famous chase scene in "To Catch a Thief" (1955) with Grace Kelly and Cary Grant.

The Moyenne Corniche (D6007) is perhaps the best known to tourists because it passes through Èze, a medieval village perched on a sheer cliff 427 m above the sea that is probably the most photogenic village on the entire Riviera. Èze has an exotic garden at the summit with monumental cacti and a 360° panorama that on exceptionally clear days includes Corsica. The road leading to Èze features technical curves and perfect tarmac, and it too served as a film location: the famous Formula 1 race in the movie "Grand Prix" (1966) was partly filmed here.

The Basse Corniche (D6098), the lowest, runs literally at sea level past Villefranche-sur-Mer (one of the most beautiful bays on the Riviera), Beaulieu-sur-Mer (home to Villa Kérylos, a perfect replica of a 5th-century BC Greek villa), and Cap-d'Ail. It is the most touristic and the most congested, but it offers the most immediate experience of the Mediterranean: the blue water just meters away, yachts at anchor, pebble beaches, and the coastal glamour of the Riviera in its purest expression.

Rider tips: the corniches are accessible year-round thanks to the Riviera climate. In summer traffic can be heavy, especially on the Basse Corniche and around Monaco (on Formula 1 Grand Prix days the entire area is closed). The ideal season is spring and autumn. For dining, in Èze the restaurant Les Remparts offers Provençal cuisine with sea views from a hanging terrace. And a tip: ride all three corniches in a single day, starting with the Grande (at dawn, no traffic, best light), then the Moyenne (mid-morning, stop in Èze), and finally the Basse (around noon, to finish at the port of Monaco).